Salicylic acid is a wonder treatment, an acne killer, and all round marvel that is used in many many skincare products. It is one of the ingredients on the tip of everyone’s tongues when it comes to acne treatment, from influencers to doctors, but why?
Acne cannot exist without its characteristic keratin build-up in the pilosebaceous unit. (See our previous post on acne causes and symptoms). If there is no keratin build-up, there will not be any comedones: pimples, blackheads, or pustules. It is important to note that while these are the most annoying visible parts of the acne disease, they are only symptoms of it, not the cause.
Salicylic acid is one of the many active ingredients that can reduce pimple sizes and origins while the causes of acne subside, either through natural hormone level changes or while other additional treatment options are explored. It is a keratinolytic agent, and therefore a comedolytic agent, meaning that it breaks down the keratin that would otherwise block one’s pores and cause breakouts. When applied topically, as it would be in commercially available treatments, it improves skin cell turnover on the epidermis as a mild chemical exfoliator.
Our skin naturally produces oils that make using just water and water-soluble agents ineffective at truly washing the face and cleaning out the pores. Salicylic acid is lipophilic, meaning that it can directly interact with the oils in our skin, allowing it to penetrate deeper for more efficient acne treatments.
When starting any new skincare regimen, consulting a dermatologist is key. Doing your own research is important too, but most of us do not know how to interpret real, complicated scientific data, leave that to the professionals. Salicylic acid works fantastically when used in combination with hydrating ingredients like betaine and hyaluronic acid derivatives.
More caution should be used when combining salicylic acid with various products like serums, peels, and creams, all with different acne-combatting ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid. If these products are mixed incorrectly they can cause irritation, redness and even peeling. When these ingredients are already combined in product formulations, they should be fine, because the formulators generally use lower concentrations and know what they’re doing.
Our rule of thumb is to start with lower concentrations of the fewest number of actives possible. Why irritate your skin more? Remember that it might take weeks to months for a visible difference to be seen. Stick with a routine for a while, even though it might be frustrating.
Sources:
Li, Y., Hu, X., Dong, G., Wang, X., & Liu, T. (2024). Acne treatment: research progress and new perspectives [Review]. Frontiers in Medicine, Volume 11 - 2024. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmed.2024.1425675
Mayo-Clinic. (2026). Salicylic acid (topical route). Retrieved 08 Jun 2026 from https://www.mayoclinic.org/drugs-supplements/salicylic-acid-topical-route/description/drg-20066030
Nafila, A., Nursanto, D., Sintowati, R., & Pramuningtyas, R. (2024). The Effectiveness Of Salicylic acid Therapy In Mild and Moderate Acne Vulgaris. MAGNA MEDICA Berkala Ilmiah Kedokteran dan Kesehatan, 11, 71. https://doi.org/10.26714/magnamed.11.1.2024.71-82
